Growing out a buzz cut
I was just reading an article on GQ about Justin Beiber (sorry) growing out his buzzcut. Regardless of how you feel about him, there were some good tips in it for not just growing out buzzcuts, but ones men can apply to any type of haircut they're trying to grow out. Instead of repeating what they said verbatim, I'll link their article at the bottom and offer more tips in addition to what they wrote here.
As they touched on in the article, one of the main issues with growing out the buzzcut is how round it gets. This is a big reason I don't like buzzcuts on most men. Since the clippers are following the shape of your head, the haircut ends up really round. As your hair grows out, it gets even rounder. When transitioning from a buzzcut to something new, you'll need to come in to the salon often to get the sides of your hair cut. If you don't quite need that much hair cut, I offer a service called a hairline and neck trim. What I do for this service is clean up your sideburns, tidy up the hair around the hairline, trim the hair on the neck, and do a taper in the back. I do not touch the hair on the sides or the top or give a shampoo with this service. Since it doesn't take me a lot of time I just charge $10. It's good for growing out any type of haircut, not just a buzzcut. It's also a quick way to keep your hair looking it's best as it grows out.
When growing out any haircut it's also a good idea to get it all cut once in a while. If you just let your hair grow without trimming it, you can get split ends which can cause breakage further down the shaft, hindering the process of getting your hair longer. One strategy I have been using over the past year as I've been growing my hair out is using a leave in conditioner. This is a conditioner made to be used outside of the shower and worn in your hair throughout the day. They don't have any hold, so if you need your hair to stay put, you might want to use a hairspray alongside it.
A few other quick tips for growing out your hair--wash your hair as little as you can get away with, be gentle with your hair when it's wet (this is when hair is its most fragile and can break), and try to avoid putting heat on your hair. I know most men don't have to worry as much about the last tip, but the things to avoid are blow dryers, flat irons, curling irons, and any other hot tool. If your hair is long enough to pull back in a pony tail or man bun, try to wait until the hair is dry before putting a band around it to help avoid breakage while the hair is wet and fragile.
Here is the GQ article I referenced earlier in the post.
http://www.gq.com/story/justin-bieber-buzz-cut
Unwanted Hair
As many of you know, Monday is the only day off, and even though I work in west LA I live out in Woodland Hills. Right now it's 110 degrees here, so I figured it would be a great time to stay inside and write another blog post.
For many men, myself include as we advance in age more and more unwanted hair keeps sprouting up. It can come in the form of back hair, ear hair, nose hair, and many guy's eyebrows can become bushy. Keeping this hair at bay can make a big difference in your overall appearance. Many men who visit me in the salon have me trim their eyebrows and ear hair, for some guys it's much easier for me to do it than to try it themselves at home. If your eyebrows are really bushy, I like to use a clipper over comb technique that will cut all of the long hairs and last until the next time you visit the salon. If you only have a couple wild hairs I use my comb and scissors to accurately cut only the few needed. Neither of these techniques will change the shape of your eyebrows or make you look effeminate. For men who have a unibrow, or starting to get one, I can wax the hair in the middle. If you're starting to get a unibrow, do not shave it! Not because of the old wives tale that shaving makes it grow back faster and thicker, but it just looks bad as the stubble starts to grow back in. I know I don't have any waxing on my service menu, but that's mainly because I don't do any eyebrow shaping. If you just want the hair in the middle removed, let me know a little in advance of your appointment so I get get the wax heated up, and we can do it at the shampoo bowl while the conditioner is on. I only charge $5 for this (mostly to cover the product costs) because it doesn't really add any time to what's already been allotted for your haircut. For ear hair, I generally clean that up as I'm finishing your haircut, most men just need a few cut off the lobes and the edge of the ear with the trimmers. I have a few hairs that come in on my ears, and I wax it off at home. This isn't a service I provide in the salon, but is't easy to do at home. You will need a wax pot, some hard wax, and some small applicator sticks. I buy all of this on Amazon, but make sure you get hard wax, the soft requires paper strips to get it off. If you're unsure which to get, you can email me and I'll send you a link. All you have to do is heat the wax up in the warmer, apply it to the hair with one of the sticks (go with the grain when you apply), wait for it to dry, and pull it off against the grain of the hair once dry. You'll have to work up a little corner with your fingernail to grip in order to pull it off. The reason I think this is best instead of just trimming the hair off is that when you rip a hair out over and over, eventually the follice will die and hair won't grow their anymore. I've been waxing my unibrow for long enough now, that even if I forget to keep up on it, mostly peach fuzz grows there now. If I hadn't been doing that for years and forgot about it, I would have something growing that would rival Anthony Davis. If you're a person that gets a lot of ingrown hairs, waxing may not me for you--also if you have any questions about any of this, please feel free to ask me the next time you're in the salon.
Finding the Right Haircut for You
There are a few things men need to consider when choosing a hairstyle. Hair texture, thickness, your face shape, and what you do for a living can make a big difference in finding something that looks good on you. The same haircut on a guy with curly hair is going to look a lot different on a man with straight hair, or even one with a little wave in his hair. I wouldn't give the same haircut to a teenager that I would to a older man who's hair is thinning. It's not just a matter of the thicker hair being thinned out by adding texture, a hairstyle that looks good on a guy with really thick hair may make the guy with thinner hair just look like he's trying to hard to hide his hair loss or to cover something up. Today I'm going to talk more about face shapes and which hair styles I think look best for each particular shape. These aren't written in stone-hard fast rules, even stylists have some disagreement on which styles look best for each face shape.
For men, the ideal face shape is square. When a man has less of a square face, the idea is to get a cut that creates more of an illusion of a square. This doesn't necessarily mean every guy who sits in my chair gets a square haircut, but there are little tricks I can do to create the illusion of a square face. I'll get into that as I talk about each face shape individually.
If you are one of the lucky guys who already have a square face shape, pretty much any haircut from longer to short will look good, but neat and clean haircuts are going to look the best. The only thing that you have to worry about if you're a guy with a square face shape is that the shorter you go, the more it will look like a military hairstyle.
If you have a rectangle face shape (long and narrow) what you really don't want is a big contrast between the top and sides--this will create the illusion that your face is even longer. A beard will do the same thing. A cut where the top and sides are proportionate and some hair falls over the forehead looks best on a guy with a rectangle shaped face.
On a man with a round face shape, I like to do the opposite that I would on a guy with a rectangle face shape. You want that contrast between the top and the sides. On a guy with a round face shape it helps great the illusion of having a strong jaw line. A well groomed beard can help with this as well.
Less men have diamond shaped faces than the ones listed above--but if you're a guy with one, you want something with softer lines, not too short (that will make your ears look bigger), and a side part. If you have a heart shaped face similar haircuts will work for you too.
For a triangle shape faced man, longer lengths are usually better. This adds volume to help offset the narrow forehead and wide jawline. I think beards don't look the best on guys with a triangle face shape because they're already so wide at the jawline and the beard makes it look even wider.
Below are some examples of the different face shapes on men.
When you do have an idea for a new hairstyle, or even if you don't have an idea, it's best to find pictures on the internet to show your barber/stylist. Even having multiple pictures is good if you only like part of one and a different part of another. I go on Reddit Male Hair Advice and I see so many posts with a picture asking, "What is this haircut called?" There will always be a lot of responses saying, "It's called take the picture into your barber." and then other comments with people debating on what the haircut is actually called. This is why I think bringing pictures in is best, the same haircuts are called different things regionally, or just from person to person. Where I moved from "the combover" when when an old guy brought all of his hair from one side across his bald head to try to cover up the fact that he's bald. A lot of people here call it a combover when a guy with plenty of hair parts it to one side. I had only heard that called a side part until I moved here.
Thanks for reading, I hope this blog has been helpful in helping you find a new hairstyle that will look best on you.